France 2025
Friday, October 10: First of all, let’s go back to Thursday night. We attended the Sound of Music at DPAC with the kids, spouses and grandkids. It was delightful. After dropping off Elizabeth and Jackson in Cary we drove home. On the way, Duke Power notified us of an outage in process due to a crash behind our house on 24. We arrived home at 1:45AM to find that the electricity had fortunately been restored right before we got home. We were pretty much packed, but I don’t know what we would have done otherwise because at 4:00AM I was up, TAR at 5:00 AM, and we left for Wilmington at 5:50AM.
And they're off !
We arrived at the airport in good shape; ILM is expanding but we were able to park close to the walkway. We had a 5-minute walk to the terminal. There was no line at TSA and our flight to Atlanta was on time. We had a nice flight from Atlanta to Paris; although the upgraded seats I purchased were not worth it, they were as compact as any others. We had decent food, but almost no sleep for the second night in a row. We arrived in Paris and transferred to F2 terminal and had to re-enter security. For some reason, and I am not complaining, we did not have to claim and re-submit our luggage. We were worried that might be a problem when we got to Nice.
Saturday, October 11: It was not a problem; everything was good. We transferred via cab to the Doubletree, checked in, took a nap and then showered. We met as a group downstairs and then went to dinner. One older lady in her mid-80’s could not keep up with the walk (which made me feel a little better). We had a nice sea bass dinner, walked back to the hotel, and went to bed early. Our group is led by Emmanuel, and consists of a similarly aged couple from Long Island, two sets of women traveling together, the adore-mentioned older lady, and a single lady from Brooklyn. In season, this group would be at least twice larger, our size is ideal.
Sunday, October 12: We slept well and were up at 7:00 AM. There was a nice breakfast at the hotel. Diane Keaton died………...well lah dee dah………...she was one of my favorite actresses. Today is Nice. We took a bus to the top of the hill and visited a park which featured busts of jazz musicians including Thelonious Monk, another Rocky Mount person! Pretty scenery and ruins from the Roman Empire. Very scenic, and we took some pictures looking down onto the beach. Afterwards we went to the city market and had lunch, gelato and shopped. We started walking back to the hotel following the train line…………and discovered we were following the wrong train line! Took a short uber back to the hotel.
Then to Monaco! We left Nice at 5:30 and had a couple of stops with great vistas. We went to the old part of Monaco and to the Palace. We ate dinner at a sidewalk café and then went to the Casino. Before we left, we had an elevated view of Monaco and I could see the swimming pool turn(s), the last turn and then the Start/Finish area. On the way to the Casino, we stopped at the Start/Finish line and did a simulated start; I saw the swimming pool, the end of the corkscrew, the right hander into the tunnel, and the tunnel.
Yes, it has occurred to me that if you are not a race fan then I lost you, but these were bucket list items. I have no desire to be there during race week, but it was great to see parts of the circuit. We got off the bus near the end of the tunnel. The yachts, cars, selfie-taking posers, and the obvious wealth were incredible to see. The Casino was much smaller than anticipated, but then again, I was comparing it to casinos in Las Vegas. TAR and I had two Vespers…………. OK, who didn’t see that coming? We went into the Casino and played a little; came out €150 ahead! Who can make that claim? I told TAR that Emmanuel is getting a bigger tip than I planned. Got back to Nice late, straight to bed, we have to be up early tomorrow. Great day!
Monday, October 13: Left Nice and drove to Cassis, it is a pretty, small nautical village. We went on a 2-hour harbor cruise in a small boat. The water is very pretty, and we saw many coves which are ideal for snorkeling and scuba diving. We were back in the village for lunch on our own, and then took a ride to the top of the bluffs for another beautiful view of the village.
Then we took a long ride to Avignon. We checked into the hotel and took a 15-minute walk into the old part of the city for dinner. I had bream…………Another long, late-night walk back to the hotel. Tomorrow is the Royal Palace and then off to a winery.
Tuesday, October 14: We started out on foot touring Avignon, the City of Popes. We went to Pont Saint-Bénézet, the famous bridge of Avignon. I think everyone has hear of this bridge except for us, and there was a famous children’s song about it also. It was built in the late 1170’s, was destroyed and rebuilt in 1200 and something. Saint-Bénézet was commanded by Christ to build the bridge, and he did so stone by stone. 18 miraculous healings have taken place on the bridge, ergo the sainthood.
We then went to Aix-en-Provence. A beautiful medieval town with nice shops and squares. Afterwards we went to an old winery on the outskirts. There were two old manors, the oldest dated to the 16th century and was used by the Germans during their WWII occupation. We enjoyed the tastings, especially the rosé s. We enjoyed dinner and tried pig cheeks, and they were good. It was a long tiring day, but we get to sleep in tomorrow morning.
Wednesday, October 15: We were able to sleep in, then went to the train station for our high-speed train to Paris. We were told that when it was time to board, we would have three minutes to get inside our car, and they were not kidding! Our 800 pounds of luggage caused much amusement among our fellow passengers.
NOTES FOR FUTURE TRAVELS TO FRANCE:
1. If you have one last chance to visit Avignon, it can be a definite CAN MISS. Nothing more to be said about that, I would have preferred that time in Nice or Paris.
2. We have GOT to learn to pack lighter.
Emmanuel was a bit stressed about our NASCAR pit stop efficiency in getting aboard, and we proved her worries very necessary indeed. Once aboard we enjoyed a smooth ride, much more comfortable than AMTRAK, and enjoyed the scenery. The top speed that I observed was 299 KMH, or 185.79 MPH.
We got to Paris quickly and took a coach to our hotel. We had time for a quick change and then we were off to our dinner and then our Seine River cruise. As we toured Paris, we bought tickets to The Louvre and made plans to visit Notre Dame, both on our own. We have been to The Louvre, but not Notre Dame due to the fire.
We left the hotel again at 4:30 and had a good dinner at a grand old restaurant called La Maison. I had roast beef that was very tender and tasty, and actually reminded me of how Dink fixed it with dark, thin gravy. After dinner we went to the Seine and boarded a barge for our river cruise. We did not do this last time for a couple of reasons: it is very expensive and the food is mediocre at best. Or so we were told. Better to eat at a good restaurant and tour separately. The cruise was highlighted by the Eiffel Tower which was lighted and had a spotlight moving. We got some good pictures and videos.
Thursday, October 16: Started the day early on a coach tour, we went to the Eiffel Tower for pictures, the Latin Quarter, and all around Paris. At the end of the tour the coach let us off at the Arc de Triomphe, and we walked down the Champs-Élysée, had lunch, and then took an UBER to the Notre-Dame Cathedral of Paris. I was using a hiking stick that was a gift from Elizabeth and Jackson (it saved the day several times) and as we neared the line to enter, I was motioned to use the handicapped access. I tried to refuse, no really, I did, but after surveying the lengths of the two lines decided to use it. It is a beautiful cathedral, and the renovation work is not noticeable any longer. An afternoon Mass was in process. I must note however, that it pales in comparison to St. Peter’s in Rome. It is beautiful and very tastefully done; however, the size is noticeably smaller. OK, I looked it up, here is the comparison (ChatGPT):
St. Peter’s Basilica is much larger — about three times the floor area of Notre-Dame and twice as tall when measured to the dome’s top.
Afterwards we took a UBER to the hotel, and crossed the road to the Hyatt Regency Paris Étoile, which features the Windo Skybar on the 34th floor. The views were incredible, and we met several of our fellow travelers there. The food was OK.
Friday, October 17: Our day at The Louvre. For the record, The Louvre robbery was on that following Sunday while we were in Normandy. We took an UBER. Although we purchased tickets for an appointed time of entry, the line was very long. Once again, a guard noticed my walking stick and directed me to the front of the line. I felt kind of bad for TAR but I waited until she made it through the 45-minute line………I am kidding, she was able to accompany me. Once inside we avoided the Mona Lisa rush and spent time looking at the Napoleonic era section. This included furniture, collectibles, snuff boxes, watches, Marie Antoinette’s travelling needs, and yes, the crowns. Then we went to the Egyptian section and got mostly through it before I ran out of gas. We had lunch inside the museum, and then walked through the gardens to Place de la Concorde. We saw the spot where Marie Antoinette was beheaded, probably for taking too much luggage. The we took an UBER back to the hotel.
Our farewell dinner was a walk to Le Chalet. We had roast chicken followed by crème brûlée. It was all good. We walked back to the hotel and had drinks and said our good byes.
Saturday, October 18: We left with hotel with a few more good byes again, and made it to the train station with plenty of time to spare. The train station featured beautiful architecture and a piano inviting anyone to play “vous de jouer” TAR learned French fast enough to tell me that means “don’t even think about it” I think it means something like “your turn to play.” When it was time (and I dislike the way, they do not tell you ahead of time where your train will be) we found our train, struggled again with our luggage, and found the correct seats! But in the wrong car! As we were in first class and there weren’t as many people on the car, the ladies who were to be in our seats took the ones in front of us. One was from Carrboro. I explained our mistake to the conductor “en français" and she wandered off laughing. Wonder what it means in French when you circle the side of your head with your index finger? Anyway, the ride to Normandy was pretty once we cleared Paris. I managed to get a few last looks at the Eiffel Tower as we left. The countryside is pretty, and we saw a lot of farming, cattle, sheep and horses.
Let’s stop right there and discuss the food of France. We both lost weight. The breads are delicious, that and the desserts are great. But TAR is now gluten-free, so no bread. Given the chance she will tell you that she “is sick of salads.” Another thing, they are very proud of their pastries, and every where you look, there are dairy farms. But no butter on the table? Pourquoi? I asked but did not get a good answer until I looked it up. The French bakers believe their breads to be so good that the taste can not be improved with butter. Or for that matter, with a selection of jams and jellies at breakfast. Sacre bleu!
The closer we got to Caan the more you could see of what is left of the hedgerow areas. Farmers do not use them as they did in the past, and not many are left in the condition we read about during WWII. Caan was where the Germans retreated to after D-Day, as it was a more important rail and highway junction than the first towns the invading forces got to. The Allied forces bombed the hell out of Caan, so when they invaded many locals did not approve. The civilian deaths in Caan, which ranged up to 3,000 was tripled by the number of homeless as 60% of the city was destroyed…...by the good guys. Many thought German occupation was not that bad in this area.
The town where we stayed was called Bayeux, and was inconsequential to the war efforts of either side, so it was virtually unharmed. When we arrived, we took a short cab to our hotel Le Lion d’Or which though old was very nice. There was no lift, so our clerk had to tote our bags up to the second floor. Wonder what “touristes porcins” means in French? Previous hotel guests included Steven Spielberg, Tom Hanks, Charles III, Dwight D. Eisenhower, Jacques Chirac, Ernest Hemingway, John Wayne, John Ford, Catherine Deneuve, Omar Bradley, Bernard Montgomery, Spencer Tracy, DE Gaulle, Peter Lawford, Alec Guinness, Sterling Moss, Ethyl Kennedy, Lauren Bacall, and of course………us. They did not ask us for autographed pictures, c’est dommage!
Dinner was at a place called La Table du Terrior, which I translated to “we serve tiny dog meat which will scare you.” It really means local cuisine. The food was adequate, and we enjoyed our desserts.
Sunday, October 19: Today is our day for the beaches at Normandy. We got a little rain as we left the hotel, and drove to Omaha Beach Cemetery. It is a very solemn place. We learned about Teddy Roosevelt, Jr. and his brother Quentin. Teddy invaded with his troops on June 6, and died five weeks after D-Day due to a heart attack and is buried beside Quentin, who was a WWI pilot killed in 1918. In 1955 Quentin was re-buried next to his brother, and is the only WWI causality buried in this cemetery. From the cemetery we looked north to Omaha Beach. We then drove to Omaha Beach, the tide was high, all of the buildings were built post-war…...I hate to say it, it was the least impressive of the landing sites we visited. Utah Beach was at low tide, and you could really get a feel for what it must have looked like at Omaha. The distance from the landing crafts to some shelter is scary to consider. Don’t forget, Utah Beach was secure in about five hours! Pointe du Hoc was the most spectacular with all of the gun placements, bunkers, barracks and craters left by naval and air bombing. Near there we also saw an existing hedgerow area, most are now gone. It was set off in a square, and you could see how the Germans set up for attacking invaders. The hedgerows were initially started by farmers in the 12th century to knock the salty air down before it hit their crops. There is a Ranger Memorial there. I did not know that a naval shell which missed its target actually created the landslide that helped them scale the cliffs at Pointe du Hoc.
Then we went to Sainte-Mère-Église where we learned about paratrooper John Steele. You might remember he was played by Red Buttons in The Longest Day. According to our guide, who acknowledged Steele as a hero, Steele did not report the incident as seen in the movie in his report. Days later he told the version we now know. The Germans were manning a fire bucket brigade when the paratroopers came in, most assume they would have seen Steele as they did others. However, there was another paratrooper who was hung up in a tree across the courtyard. By the way, the courtyard is tiny. The other soldier was shot and killed, and the wrought iron fence has several crease marks of the bullets shot at him. Ken Russell was his name. Regardless, a model of Steele and his parachute still hang from the church. Also, according to our guide, Steele had already fought in North Africa, Italy, and after rejoining his unit, was captured and escaped. According to the internet, he was captured by the Germans who cut him down, and then escaped. Brave men.
The village is pretty and very grateful to the United States Army. Inside the church there is a stained-glass window showing the paratroopers. We were glad to get something to eat, as the town is small and most storefronts were closed since it was Sunday. There are many museums in the area, if you have the opportunity to visit you should plan more time. Also, if you have the means, hire a private guide rather than one with several people.
The countryside is beautiful and there are many small monuments spread around. One that I noticed while leaving a town was dedicated to the plane shot down carrying Easy Company CO Thomas Meehan. It marked where the plane crashed. Dick Winters became the CO the next day.
That evening, we walked to a restaurant where the waiter and the chef appeared to be the only employees. I should mention that a repeating pattern we observed was that your food and drink come quickly, but then after you finish, the staff does not appear to want you to leave. I know, enjoy the after-dinner conversation, blah blah blah. But this waiter was funny. They had something like MTV on the television in the other room, and he would come into the dining room and play a small piano and organ. He would play the same song, just not in sync with the television. This can be easily explained, as TAR noticed several times that he was taking a shot behind the bar. Then he came to our table with three shot glasses, and said the word “tradition” in English, and poured three Polish vodka shots. I am pretty sure he visited each table in the restaurant. Funny guy, nice tip.
Monday, October 20: Our last day in Normandy, we left early for Mont St. Michel. We left at 8:00 AM and took a 12 passenger can through the lovely French countryside. We arrived at about 10:00, the ride in is spectacular. We walked across most of the causeway, and then we walked up to about the first chapel. My 50% replaced right knee not only has three bone spurs now, but it was feeling very stiff. (100% replacement is scheduled for February) I decided to bail, and besides that, the cobblestones were a little slick. We stopped at the chapel and visited it, then went into the stores along the way. We had a nice lunch with a view of the flats around the abbey. Afterwards we shopped our way back to the causeway and then to our relaxing ride back to Bayeux. We made it back to the hotel, picked up our luggage, and then took a cab to the train station. We met a couple from Atlanta who apparently were going into Paris for the night. They said they would help us get on the right train. Sure enough we all got on the wrong train; however we stopped in Caan and waited for our train, which was right behind us. Again, the fun with the luggage can not be overstated. TAR bought some charcuterie for the ride to Paris.
The train ride was uneventful and since it was dark there was no scenery to enjoy. We got to Paris, took man UBER to our hotel near the airport, and hit the sack.
Tuesday, October 21: We were able to sleep in, went over to the airport with plenty of time. Paris to Boston, while clearing USA customs I realized I lost my Chromebook somewhere. Neither the hotel or CDG security could locate it; not a big concern as the battery was nearly dead. After I got home, I changed all of my passwords. The flights, timing, meals, etc. were all good. I was very relieved when we saw our bags coming off the carousel. To recap our flights:
OUTBOUND
Wilmington-Atlanta Atlanta-Paris Paris-Nice
INBOUND
Paris-Boston Boston-Atlanta Atlanta-Wilmington
Despite all of our worries about using Wilmington, they were all on time, all with our two tons of luggage there waiting, no complaints with the airlines (other than the size of the upgraded seats from Atlanta to Paris), especially considering the government shutdown.
We had a good time; I’d like to visit France again.